What if you could wear the night sky on your wrist, dreaming away as you gaze into the infinite universe while not losing track of time? This beautiful watch from A. Lange & Söhne makes it possible. First, a short disclaimer: I’ve been wearing the watch for several weeks, and I bought it myself.
On one hand, you could say that this makes the review more independent. On the other, you could say that it is even more biased. After all, I did decide to buy the watch. Now that I have been open and honest, I will take you along on my first “week on the wrist”.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Blue Gold Flux
For those who do not know A. Lange & Söhne yet, allow me to give it a short introduction. The watch brand based out of Glashütte, Germany has been competing with prestigious Swiss brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet since 1990. A. Lange & Söhne is known for the perfect finishing of its watches, including each piece’s twofold assembly. Each movement is assembled twice to ensure correct adjustment and allow additional inspection for damages.
The Saxonia (ref. ALS-205-086) I am reviewing belongs to the brand’s entry-level collection, starting at €19,000. What appeals to me personally about A. Lange & Söhne is that it claims to make no distinction in finishing between its entry-level models and high complications. In my experience, this has largely been the case, but I might look into that matter in more detail in a future article.
Aventurine, quartz, or goldstone?
Is the dial aventurine or quartz? It’s neither. In the world of watches, we come across these kinds of dials, but not very often. Omega used aventurine for the Speedmaster Chrono Chime, but H. Moser & Cie has also made a version of the Endeavour Perpetual Moon with a gorgeous aventurine dial. Rolex has used natural aventurine in the past too, I believe.
A. Lange & Söhne create these dials from scratch, so they are not found in nature. The base of the dial is a solid silver plate with an applied layer of gold flux, which creates this exceptional result. According to the sales associate in the Lange boutique, this is a very tricky technique, and it takes an average of 5–7 unusable dials before one perfect example is produced.
I do not know the precise technique that Lange uses, but I presume it involves goldstone. This is a centuries-old technique that involves fusing glass with copper fragments. Calling it copper flux would be more accurate, but Lange calls it gold flux. Gold sounds more expensive and chic, anyway. After all, the premium for this dial is €5,000!
The thicker slimmer one
The price isn’t the only thing that’s larger. So is this Saxonia Thin variant itself. It is 2mm larger in diameter (39 instead of 37) and 0.3mm thicker than the regular Saxonia Thin. The proportions are not too bad, and the watch can still be considered slim at just 6.2mm from crystal to case back. Though some may consider it a small watch, I find it relatively proportional. I have an average wrist of 17.5cm (6.9″), and it wears very well, as you can see in the pictures.
The caliber L093.1 is only 2.9mm thick and is finished to the highest standards, the only way Lange knows how. The movement boasts a power reserve of 72 hours and is visible through the sapphire display case back.
One point of criticism is that, due to the lack of a second hand, you cannot tell at a glance whether the watch is still running. If you turn the watch over to peek at the backside, you can check for movement in the balance wheel and determine if there’s any juice left. It is no punishment to have to look at the attractive backside for this, but how cool would it be if there were a power-reserve indicator visible on the movement?
Legibility
Coming back to the dial, in my opinion, no changes are needed here. It’s beautifully minimalist, and while I already find the regular Saxonia Thin thought-provoking, this dial is otherworldly. It resembles a starry sky on a clear night. The hour markers and hands are in white gold and extremely thin. They are finished with a mirror polish, resulting in excellent readability even in low-light environments.
The Saxonia Thin case
So far, I have been fairly positive and have few points of criticism. However, the biggest criticism I have is about the case. This Gold Flux dial would have looked even better if it had been available in a rose gold case. Now, I know that this is a matter of taste, and the watch was indeed made in rose gold in 2021. Unfortunately, I could not get my hands on that limited edition of only 50 pieces. The rose gold gives a bit more warmth to the watch. Perhaps it would be nice in yellow gold as well.
But I mustn’t complain; I purchased the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin in white gold because it also is stunning. The case consists of three layers, and the bezel and backside, including the lugs, are polished. The mid-case is brushed, resulting in a nice contrast and making the watch look slimmer. It is characteristic of Lange and is instantly recognized by watch connoisseurs.
The Saxonia Thin is not waterproof with a rating of only 3 bar. Washing your hands or getting caught in a rain shower is okay, but you should definitely not take a bath or swim with it. Apart from the water resistance, I find it disappointing that the crown does not visually seem to be closed. This is not related to this specific variant. Indeed, the other Saxonia Thin models are like this as well, showing a slight gap between the crown and the case. I am not technically qualified to know if this is possible, but it would be a nice upgrade to make it a bit more flush.
Leather strap and gold buckle
The final element is the strap. If you compare the stock photos with the pictures of my watch, you can see that I have a different strap on it. It is an original Lange strap made of matte alligator leather, lined with smooth leather, and with matching stitching. The original Lange strap that came with the watch has no visible stitching and a glossy finish. Although that strap combined nicely with this Saxonia Thin, I find it much more balanced now.
Afterthoughts on the Saxonia Thin Blue Gold Flux
All in all, this watch is at its best when viewed in full sunlight. It lends itself to being worn on the terrace of a stylish restaurant during the long summer evenings or paired with a suit. I like the watch, and it is comfortable to wear, but I don’t think it is an everyday piece. It’s too elegant, and I’d rather wear my Lange 1 daily.
If you are looking for a watch that shimmers and catches your eye but you are not too fond of diamonds, this is a perfect dress watch. Besides, it is a nice “entry” into Haute Horlogerie.
You can find more articles about A. Lange & Söhne here or visit the brand’s official website here.
This article first appeared on Fratellowatches.com.
