I have long wanted to have this wonderful piece of gold in my hands. Now www.crownguard.com has one for sale and has been kind and willing to let me review it. I am happy to share with you my experience and photos of this beautiful all-gold Panerai!
Let’s be frank, every watch brand has its primetime and Panerai’s was in the early 2000s. By now, Panerai is fully settled and an appreciated brand in the watch industry. But at times when big was better, Panerai was the best. In the days when music was dreadful, at least watches were gorgeous.
The different materials used in this chunky banger provide unusual contrasts. A gold diving watch on a leather strap that is not meant to get wet, faced with a carbon fibre dial more reminiscent of motorsports. But precisely this play of opposites makes it a watch that stands out, without compromising the pure Panerai feel.
Light and heavy
Let’s zoom in on one feature: the carbon fibre dial. In the era the watch was released, such material was far from common.
We can often see exotic materials making their way into the watch-making industry. But carbon fibre is far from easy to harness. So, it took years before a watch was made entirely from carbon fibre. However, I must admit that most watches made from carbon fibre look like a mess after a certain amount of time. Just look at the well-known wore-out bezels of the Royal Oak Offshore from that era.
This is certainly not the case with this Panerai, as the material has only been utilized on the dial. This makes the watch look sporty and not as traditional. Considering the watch is from 2004 and uses this material, you will realize that it comes from a time when brands were just starting to experiment with materials. The time when everything was new and far from being milked and hyped as it tends to be these days.
A well-designed dial plays with the light, and this one certainly does. At some moments it appears deep black, and the classic Panerai look surfaces, but in full daylight, the sportiness bounces off the carbon fibre. These subtle differences provide diversity and some depth, something you wouldn’t have with a standard matte black dial. Surely, everyone will choose this one, then?
Chunk of gold
Not forgetting the most eye-catching thing about this watch: the thick Obese yellow gold casing. See, I love yellow gold. It’s heavy, it shines and exudes pure luxury. When it’s applied to a sporty watch, it comes out even better.
Some will argue that yellow gold fits better in a classical dresser, but I believe the combination of aesthetics and materials is important. Gold is supposed to stand out!
The contradiction, though, is that it doesn’t make sense, because who goes diving with a weight of almost 200 of grams gold on your wrist? In watchmaking land, a lot doesn’t make sense.
A buckle or a folding clasp?
Unfortunately, not shown in the picture, but the watch is wonderfully complete because of the 18k gold folding clasp. Many purists prefer a buckle, but I find that a folding clasp is both much more practical and it ensures less wear on the leather. Besides, it’s much more convenient than fiddling with a buckle anyway…. plus, since I am very clumsy it prevents some accidents.
Final thoughts
The condition of this model is good, although you can see wear marks. But this cannot be avoided when 44mm of gold is on your wrist. For the price that this watch is for sale, it remains one of the best value-for-money pieces.
Lovely, that nostalgia but with a modern feel. While some watches from this era feel vintage (looking at you Rolex), this Panerai meets all modern standards!
In conclusion, do you like heavyweights that fit nicely on an average wrist despite their size? Do you like a sporty look but a touch classic? And just want to stand out with a big nugget of branded gold on your wrist? Then this is the watch you want.
Panerai PAM0140 by Crownguard NOW SOLD
Pictures by Sophie Witmondt
